Carpentry

Carpentry Glossary - C

Glossary Index

Calipers: a tool used to measure the distance between two symmetrically opposing sides. Used where acess by a measuring stick is not possible, or where grater accuracy is required.

Camber: slight arch in a beam or any horizontal member, preventing it from from bending downward in a concave shape due to vertical loading or it's own weight.

Canted: angled or leaning. In architecture, a part, or segment, of a facade which is at an angle to another part of the same facade.

Cantilever: In general, any beam supported on only one end. In carpentry, a horizontal projection from a building, such as a blacony or canopy, having no external supporting members.

Carpentry Glossary - B

Glossary Index

Backband: Narrow, rabbeted molding installed on the outside edge and corner of an interior window or interior door casing. Used to create a heavy trim appearance.

Backing Board: (1) In two layer drywall systems, the base panel of gypsum wallboard. Not suitable as finiah surface, since it uses grey liner paper facing.
(2) In a cutting operation like sawing or routing, a board put behind the work piece board so the the first board will not chip out from the blade moving out of it.

Different Grades of Plywood

Low Grade Type of PlywoodThe typical grading system used most often for plywood, which is an engineered wood panel, uses the letters A through D (A,B,C,D) and N, to grade the quality of the plywood according to the number of blemishes.

Grade N plywood would generally contain the least number of blemishes, followed by Grade A and then through to grade D plywood containing the maximum roughness and number of blemishes, seams, knots and repairs allowed.

Preparation for Trim Carpentry

After the drywall installation in a room, trim carpentry can start. But there are a few things to be checked for first. Check all the surfaces that will have molding applied to them, using a straightedge and carpenters square.

Drywall compound will frequently have been built up along inside and outside corner joints, and your trim molding will not lay flat there. So, you need to flatten these areas out, taking off the high spots with a Stanley Surform tool, and paring down tight areas with a chisel where the Surform won’t reach.