More often than not, table saw fences on their own will cost you more money than you may have planned – and you may not get the weight you’d hoped from an aftermarket product. And if you have the time to research all the fences out there – why not take an afternoon and make your own for less?
Step 1: Rails & Table Extension
Get started on the rails and table extension by bolting a 1 ¾” x 1 ¾” length of angle to the table side, and situate it 3/8” below the tabletop. This will become the support for your third miter gauge slot. Next, bolt the same length across the back of the table, and place it just barely below the miter slots.
Onto this piece, you’ll want to bolt a short length of angle iron (¾” x ¾”) to the inside of it in order to support the table. In order to determine the exact position, a length of angle iron should be clamped across the top of the table, and then place the pre-made router table panel in between the iron and the support. This should be clamped into position so that ¼” holes can be drilled for bolts.
To mount the rail, drill 5/16” holes for the front of the table, and ¼” holes to fasten a ¾” x ¾” length of angle to support the router table. Position these in the same way as you did at the back.
Countersink the 5/16” and the ¼” holes, so that the flat head bolts can be used for mounting. Then cut a rabbet in the router table’s side, making it a bit wider than an inch. Leave 3/8” on top.
Clamp and Drill
Once the miter gauge is in the slot, and you have the edge of the router table placed against the bar, put a long clamp width-wise across the table. Then you can drill a ¼” hole in the table front through your piece of angle iron.
Place a temporary bolt in the hole, move the miter gauge to the back, and clamp the table back. Drill a hole at the center and at the back of the table. Then drill more holes through the piece of ¾” angle iron, moving toward the outside. You can then remove the temporary bolt and countersink all the holes in order to put in flathead bolts.
Step 2: The T-Square
Cut a line of 2’ x 2” tubing to the length you need – since it may vary depending on your table – and tap a hole for an 8-32 screw. This will fasten the glider two inches from the rear, whereupon on the side of the tube you can drill and tap three ¼” holes: make one at each end, and one in the center.
Make sure these are not in line with the blade, since this will be used to fasten on a relatively sacrificial model of wood fence. You can then weld together the three parts of your t-square, and install nylon glides.
Step 3: The Lock
The lock cam can be made from a piece of round stock that’s about 1” in diameter, using a ¼” thick flat bar that’s wrapped around. This will increase the total diameter, while also working as a handle.